Charged For Adventure
“Hey, Tesla, take me to the Westfjords.” There are two types of people — those who love camping and those who don’t. Thinking about these polar opposites, I always recall [
Chasing Birds In The Snow
In Flateyri, birdwatching is done a bit differently [pullquote]“The real birds are wintering in warmer climates, but I can still embark on Flateyri’s mural bird walk.R
Walking Through A Phallic Wonderland
It’s all about the dicks at Iceland’s weirdest and wildest museum How does one measure distances in different places around the world? In some places, it’s as simple as kilom
Zen In The Trees
Iceland doesn’t have a lot of forest, but there’s a hidden gem in at least one of them Akureyri is being swept by a snowstorm. For a few hours on […]
Escaping The Grey At One Of Iceland’s Most Storied Greenhouses
On a mission to get lost in a lush wilderness under glass It’s one of the gloomiest days this December — just past noon, yet outside is as dark as […]
36 hours in Akureyri: Whipping Through The Capital Of The North
Did you know that it was not until 1776 that the first residential house was built in Akureyri and in 1784 the population numbered a grand total of 12? Historical […]
Love at First Flight
Taking Flight on Iceland’s Mega Zipline Staring down a canyon and the valley beyond, strapped into a harness and hanging by a steel cable, I can’t help but wonder how […
Peace, Perfect Peace
Enjoying the semi-solitude of Fossvogur Cemetery There are few places one can go to be at once surrounded by people and also left entirely undisturbed. If one doesn’t mind that [
A Haven For All
On Rebecca’s animal farm it’s pet, laugh, repeat Grapevine’s dusty work car pulls over at Hólar farm, just 17 kilometres away from Búðardalur in West Iceland, and is gre
Bombs And Guns And Stuff
The recent resumption of fin whale hunting has drawn attention onto Hvalfjörður, the fjord near Reykjavík where the whaling station is located. The fjord is not, however, only k
A Rather Unsuccessful Fungi Foray
Lessons learned on the first foraging trip of the year Wild mushroom risotto, oyster mushroom tacos, chanterelle pie, porcini soup, stuffed portobello mushrooms… As the air turns
In Tune With Nature
Two days of hiking, pooling, horseback riding and more in Dalir Every time I spend too long in Reykjavík – whether it’s just a few days or a month, I’m […]
Rock, Rust And Road Trip Dust
Taking a long awaited trip up West “We’ll have to drive around a lot of fjords.” “Yup.” “That’s going to take a lot of time.” “I can download more music […
A Rollercoaster Of Absurdity, Tragedy, Joy
Ragnar Kjartansson’s retrospective Epic Waste of Love and Understanding hits Denmark’s Louisiana Museum The fact that Denmark‘s biggest contemporary art museum is curr
Treading Lightly Around Iceland
How to travel without a massive impact Is any travel technically eco-friendly? Nearly every aspect of our daily lives has an impact on the surrounding environment. That impact is m
How Do You Volcano?
The essential guide to visiting the Litli-Hrútur eruption It finally happened – again. The third volcanic eruption in three years, the Litli-Hrútur volcano continues to deliver
The Grapevine Guide To Spending A Rainy Day
They’re frequent enough, so may as well have a plan to get through them Summer. What is summer? After a few bright seasons spent in Iceland one learns that “heat” […]
Echoes Of Heritage In Tálknafjörður
One of the oldest buildings in the Westfjords continues to thrive as a vibrant cultural hub With its large rainbow-coloured chimney, Cafe Dunhagi stands out against the grey and fo
Melting Giants: Exploring and reflecting on Iceland’s disappearing glaciers
If you’re visiting or living in Iceland, you should go on a glacier hike – as long as you still can. Because within the next 20 years Vatnajökull’s outlet glaciers […
Taste Reykjavík On The Grapevine’s Signature Food Tour
There’s more to Icelandic cuisine than fermented shark and hotdogs. And there’s way more to it than the burgers and fries you’ll find in countless Reykjavík rest
Birdwatching With A Pro
Learning to “catch and release,” the birder’s way* I vividly remember the moment I met with friends after lockdown. Everyone was sharing their pandemic hobbies and, as you ca